Filets de rouget, sauce vigneronne, purée de panais

In the South of France, cooks will fight over red mullet, it is such a popular fish. And of all the types you can buy, the varieties from the Mediterranean are considered some of the finest; they are quite rare and therefore expensive. Although red mullet have a thin skin and the flesh is delicate, they do stand up to strong flavours – Indian spices, Mediterranean herbs and spices, or this punchy red wine sauce.

Rouget are also known as ‘la bécasse de la mer’ – the