PINEAPPLE CURRIES ARE wonderfully delicious. Traditionally Thais use the eggs from a horseshoe crab to complement the fruit. I find the less arcane mussel is a more than satisfactory alternative. Mud crab, large prawns (shrimp), chicken or pork can also be used. Although the combination of meat or seafood with pineapple may for some be hackneyed, in this instance at least, do not dismiss it. An appropriate, if somewhat unusual, side dish is
Kai Kern (