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Published 1993
AROUND CHIANG MAI where I first had this dish, there are many Baan Suan — restaurants set in gardens. They are well regarded by the Thais, who often consider a restaurant’s atmosphere is just as important as its food. Up country, atmosphere means live entertainment and live entertainment means a motley collection of hacks accompanying a rambunctiously second-rate chanteuse. I loved it, and the food was just as good as its atmosphere.
