On my first trip through Europe, two friends and I ordered this local specialty in a Salzburg wine bar, without having any idea what it was. It arrived, a big panful of puffed pillows of egg white, fragrant with vanilla, with just enough yolk folded in to give a melting, unctuous texture. I would up eating almost the whole thing.

It is sometimes eaten there as a light supper. This version comes from Andy Kistler, Austrian-born chef at Vienna’79, a New York restauran