Luli’s Simplest Rice Pudding

This is the starting point for rice puddings: rice simmered in sweetened milk until it thickens, with no eggs and no baking. The recipe is from my dear friend Luli Gray, a chef and novelist whose family took her to live in Argentina as a child, and who now lives in Chapel Hill, North Carolina. (Luli says you can add the raisins, “if the children have been very good.”)