Porcini Custards, Chervil Sauce

In the restaurant porcini mushrooms, or dried ceps, those pungent, autumnal-smelling goodies, arrive in half-kilo bags, tempting one to use them in immoderate quantities, despite their price. But, like their fabled cousin, the white truffle, a little goes a long way, so one’s natural urge to be profligate needs to be curbed. To those of us who pay retail prices, the need to extract the most from them is pretty important, so it’s gratifying to know how effective just a few can be added to a