Semolina Gnocchi with Porcini Cream

I first tasted gnocchi in a London Italian restaurant – one of the old-fashioned grand ones with fake plaster cracks in the wallpaper, fake pillars forming vistas of Portofino and bacchic friezes. These were ‘alla Romana’, that is with tomato sauce – a sluggish doughy cylinder cut into slices and given a smear of lipstick with some unseasoned tomato purée. I thought these really couldn’t be ‘le veritabile gnocchi’ so tried them again in Italy – probably ricotta and spinach. Another gnocchi