Rillettes of Duck with Raisins and Mustard-Seed Caviar

I contracted Francophilia at a very early age. It was between high school and college that the obsession really took hold. I had moved to New York in the summer of 1984 with no plans but to live in my sister’s abandoned apartment on the Upper West Side (she was off climbing mountains in Africa, I think) and to anticipate my first semester at Columbia. I remember feeling terribly lost until Philip, an acquaintance from boarding school, phoned me. He had grown up in Paris, and his mother,