Unagi with Celery Root and Wasabi

Unagi, or freshwater eel, with anything sweet and starchy is delicious. Celery root has both of those traits, so it’s the perfect match. I like to present it in remoulade form, which is a classic way to treat the root vegetable. I learned to make it in France, where they invented the preparation; comparable to cole slaw, it’s a salad mixed with mayonnaise and a lot of mustard.

To play off the eel, a staple of Japanese cuisine, I add that country’s mustard, karashi, and some h