Reduced to its most basic form, this is a piece of fish on a gratin. That was where I started when creating this entrée, although the initial premise isn’t mine. I borrowed it from Pierre Franey, whose recipe for flétan boulangère was one I followed in college, long before I’d gone to cooking school. I was already a Francophile, and his food was always Franco-forward; that was the only style of fine-din