Mussel and Saffron Brandade, with Bacon Crumbs

• 1 kg mussels (shelled weight, 2 kg in shell), scrubbed and debearded
• 350 ml

Begin by tapping each mussel with a knife, discarding any that do not close. Steam the mussels in a pan in the white wine with the bay leaf and thyme for 3–4 minutes, covered, until the mussels open. Discard any that do not open fully. Strain and reserve the juices. Remove the mussel meat from the shells when cool. Set aside. Strain the mussel liquor through a sieve or kitchen cloth to remove a