The following is a Hanoverian sauce for boar’s head, though some form of mustard sauce had been served in England with boar’s head or any brawn since the Middle Ages. It is very good with any brawn or with cold lamb, veal or pork.

‘Grate the rind of a Seville orange or lemon on to 1 tablespoon of caster sugar. Squeeze the juice over, add half a tablespoon of dry mustard, 2 tablespoons o