• about 2 dozen inside stalks of celery, all strings scraped away, cut into 3-in. (7-cm.) lengths, boiled for 20 minutes in salted water and well drained

Dip each piece of celery in this batter and fry gently in the butter until golden brown. Drain and pile on a flat dish. Just before serving pour 2 oz. of clean melted butter over them.

A variant on this recipe, from a book called Adams Luxury & Eve’s Cookery, of 1744, makes the