A Victorian dinner-party savoury. They are very good indeed, but it is a little tricky to get the mixture just right.

It is interesting that Mrs Glasse, in 1747, gives a recipe for what are generally known as aigrettes, calling them ‘water fritters’. The recipe, when worked out, is almost exactly as given here except that her aigrettes are of unflavoured paste, fried ‘a fine brown’ and served with sugar and orange-flavoured water.