Anchovy Elixir

In the conventional way of these things, a dip to be eaten with crudités, drink in hand, before you even sit down to dinner, should be presented as the first of these three recipes. But this extraordinary elixir is for me the very apogee of anchovydom; it demands the final place on the podium. This isn’t about favouritism, but more about its essential attributes. For the anchovy lover, there can be no purer celebration of its qualities.

I say a dip, but this is equally a sauce – for