Oxtail Bourguignon

I don’t need much of an excuse to make an oxtail stew. I love its rich fattiness, its sweet viscosity: words that alarm the lean team, but bring joy to the brown-food brigade.

I’m not sure how Burgundians feel about this tinkering with their most revered classic, but I must tell you that I feel very good about it indeed. And so, I hope, will you when you eat it.

Peeling a pile of pearl onions would be a daunting prospect, but happily the universe provides, in the form of pac