Fermented Hot Sauce

Christmas eating may hinge on sandwiches, but I feel that chiefly, Christmas is all about the condiments. The two are not unconnected, of course. The choice of condiments is an intensely personal one, as anyone who has ever been brought fruitlessly into an argument about whether it should be ketchup or brown sauce in a bacon sandwich can attest. (And for me, it’s neither of those, by the way: all I require is that the bread be dunked in the bacon fat and then smeared with English mustard.)