Twice-Baked Soufflés

The idea of baking a soufflé and letting it fall, or at least deflate slightly, before rebaking sounds oxymoronic. But in fact this method of making individual soufflés—on the small side, since they are so rich—and then rebaking them surrounded by a sauce creates a delightful first course. Here’s how it goes: You make a basic soufflé mixture that is heavier than usual because of more béchamel. It bakes in individual ramekins until well risen, but is left a little underdone. All of this can