Chicken Fricassee with Morels

You can make this recipe with ordinary mushrooms or other wild mushrooms, either fresh mushrooms that you sauté at the last minute or dried mushrooms reconstituted in water. Dried morels and porcini are the tastiest of all the dried mushrooms—in fact, dried morels have more flavor than fresh—but dried porcini can sometimes be tough, so that you have to chop them or at least cut them into small pieces. Peeling the pearl onions is the most timing-consuming part of this dish—something to do th