Cooked Tomato Concassée

Always make a tomato concassée—chunky tomato sauce— with the best possible tomatoes and cook them as little as possible to preserve their texture while concentrating their flavor. The usual approach is to cook the raw tomatoes until their liquid evaporates, but this can turn the tomatoes into mush. One alternative is to cook the concassée just long enough for the tomatoes to release their liquid, drain them in a strainer, boil the liquid they released down to a syrup, and then add it back t