Fondue Savoyarde

Classic fondue comes from the foothills and higher mountains of the Jura and Savoy, cheese country where cows flourish and the brisk air gives just the right nip to a ripening cheese. Fondue can be made with a combination of cheeses, such as piquant Tomme de Savoie and meltingly rich Vacherin, or simply with Gruyère, as here. It is usually prepared in a shallow earthenware saucepan called a caquelon, or in an enameled cast-iron fondue pot. The mixture must be heated gently but steadily, and