Rougets Sautés à la Vinaigrette de Tomates

Red mullet is prized in France, as much for its brisk, almost gamey taste as for its brilliant skin. It is a small fish, so more than one may be needed per person. Any small whole fish, particularly bream, can be used instead. The regional twist comes with local oils: olive oil in the south, or walnut or hazelnut oil farther north. Vinegars range from artisanal brews using red or white wine, or perhaps Champagne, to the cider vinegar that has long been a part of fish dishes in Normandy and