Écrevisses à la Nage

A great bowl of crayfish served in their court bouillon (literally “quick broth”) is a rare treat still found occasionally in Savoy and the Dauphiné. Cooks in Normandy make a similar broth to poach their baby lobsters, a dish known as les demoiselles de Cherbourg, flavoring it with Calvados instead of vermouth. A dry white wine such as a Sauvignon Blanc is good for the bouillon. I am suggesting a white butter sauce based on a reduction of the cooking liquid for dipping the crayfish tails, b