The very best venison steaks, which are cut from the loin meat along the backbone, are meltingly tender and juicy and are best left well alone. In the southwest and around Bordeaux, they are simply panfried and served with a red-wine reduction sauce and a shower of crunchy chopped raw shallot. Unbeatable! For the wine sauce, a Bordeaux blend containing plenty of fruity Merlot is ideal. Here’s the place for your favorite steak accompaniment — for me a mound of skinny frites.