Sauce au Vin Jaune et Morilles

Vin Jaune, a straw yellow wine with a lingering, maderized bite reminiscent of a dry sherry, comes from the Jura region, which borders Switzerland. Combined with the intense little morel mushrooms that pop up in woods or orchards in the spring, it makes a silken sauce for roast chicken, veal, and venison that, once tasted, is never forgotten. The wine can be hard to find, however, and I have sometimes replaced it with a dry Chardonnay laced with two to three tablespoons dry sherry. As for t