Ravioles

Ravioles, the ravioli look-alikes from around Nice near the Italian border, have recently migrated to most parts of France and grown outsize at the same time. I am skeptical about the current fad for giant ravioles, three to a portion, which are quick to shape but tricky to cook without losing the stuffing. Far more tempting are these originals, little cushions that are squares or half-moons, with comforting fillings of coarsely chopped cooked vegetables, or perhaps some meat left over from