Céleri Remoulade

The knobbly celery roots that appear in French farmers’ markets in the fall are the basis for Céleri Remoulade, one of the most famous French salads. In my opinion, there is no better way to dress this chewy, rather off-putting root than with a mustard mayonnaise (sauce remoulade), which turns the salad a stunning creamy white. (Some cooks add grated carrot for color, but I don’t approve.) Make the salad at least 8 hours ahead if you can, as both the flavor and texture will improve. You may