Chou en Surprise

You don’t often come across stuffed cabbage nowadays, which is a pity. I always enjoy blanching the head, pulling back the outer leaves, and then filling the center and reshaping the cabbage so the stuffing comes as a surprise when the cabbage is cut open like a cake. The wedges, their green leaves concealing a mixture of sausage meat and chestnuts, rest on a bed of sautéed cabbage — the perfect country meal. The greener the cabbage, the better, and curly, dark Savoy cabbage is the best of