A glance at Pissaladière, a flat yeast bread from the Pays Niçois bordering Italy, reveals its close relationship to Neapolitan pizza. Pissaladière is topped with much more onion and fewer tomatoes than the average pizza, and it always includes anchovy. It can be baked in a large tart pan, or flat on a baking sheet, as I do here. The best black olives for the topping are brined with less salt than the classic Greek-style olive. The olives of Nyons in northern Provence are ideal.