Tarte aux Fruits Alsacienne

The local fruits in Alsace — apricots, bilberries (blueberries are a close relation), and half a dozen varieties of plum — are so juicy that cooks go to great lengths to avoid a soggy crust. They use a puffy yeast dough (popular, too, with German cooks across the Rhine) that soaks up juices from the fruit with help from a few dry bread crumbs. The creamy custard filling further encloses the fruit. No accompaniment is needed, though a scoop of ice cream won’t come amiss. The tart is so eye-c