Marmelade de Fruits d’Automne

The flavors of autumn are concentrated in this intense, deep golden Norman fruit butter of apples, pears, and quinces. Looking like ancient, craggy pears, quinces are perfect in preserves, their mellow, perfumed taste developing only with long cooking. They can be hard to find, so you may substitute more of the firm pears (Bosc or Seckel are best). For a nonalcoholic butter, add a teaspoon of vanilla extract instead of the Calvados. I like to serve this fruit butter with cold ham, pork, Ter