A few years ago, my husband, Gregor, did some sleuthing to find the Norwegian branch of his family tree. With old black-and-white photos and the help of Face-book, he found his fourth cousins on a remote island in the western part of Norway. After days of air travel, a long car ride, and two ferry trips, we finally arrived on the picturesque fishing isle of Espevaer (population 162), to learn that nearly everyone we met on the island was somehow r