This is associated with an old Provençal custom. On Sunday nights fathers were responsible for dinner, and this was one of their treats. They would light a fire with the help of all the children, then the whole family would sit around the fireplace and chat while the cod and the vegetables sizzled on the grill.
The dish was sometimes prepared with unsoaked dried cod, but cooked that way it is too salty for my taste. This is the version I have chosen.
Soak the cod for several hours or overnight in cold water, changing the water according to the instructions on the package. Drain the cod and cut the fillets in half.
Light a fire and wait until the flames are out and the wood or charcoal is glowing. Place the potatoes and the onions on a fine-meshed grill. Add the cod and the garlic cloves. After 15 minutes turn the potatoes over with tongs (do not turn the cod—it might fall apart) and cook until all the ingredients are tender—it will take from 20 to 30 minutes.
Place all the ingredients on a warm platter and pass it around with the cruets of oil and of vinegar, the salt shaker, and the pepper mill. Each person will peel his or her potato and garlic clove, and the seasoning will be done individually.
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