Bubble and Squeak

While bubble and squeak is usually made from leftovers, it is much nicer if you cook both potatoes and cabbage fresh. Use a Savoy-type cabbage, not a hard round one, and don’t overcook it. Frying in beef dripping gives a better flavour – and goose fat is best of all.


  • 800 g/ lb potato
  • 400 g/ 14 oz cabbage
  • salt and pepper
  • freshly grated nutmeg
  • about 5 tbsp oil or fat of choice


Cook the potatoes in rapidly boiling salted water until tender. Drain well.

At the same time, cut out the big stalks from the cabbage, shred the leaves and blanch for 2–3 minutes in rapidly boiling salted water. Refresh in cold water and drain thoroughly, squeezing out all the moisture you can.

Mash the potatoes dry and mix the cabbage in while the mash is still warm, seasoning with salt and pepper. Grated nutmeg, if unorthodox, makes an improving addition.

Heat 4 tablespoons of the oil or fat in a frying pan over a low to moderate heat. Put in the mixture and flatten to a cake. Cook over a low heat until a crust forms on the bottom, about 10 minutes.

Break it up with a spatula, mix and press down again. Cook for another 10 minutes. Preheat a hot grill.

Brush the surface with a little more fat or oil and put under the grill to brown the top. Slide out on to a board and cut into wedges to serve.