While bubble and squeak is usually made from leftovers, it is much nicer if you cook both potatoes and cabbage fresh. Use a Savoy-type cabbage, not a hard round one, and don’t overcook it. Frying in beef dripping gives a better flavour – and goose fat is best of all.
Cook the potatoes in rapidly boiling salted water until tender. Drain well.
At the same time, cut out the big stalks from the cabbage, shred the leaves and blanch for 2–3 minutes in rapidly boiling salted water. Refresh in cold water and drain thoroughly, squeezing out all the moisture you can.
Mash the potatoes dry and mix the cabbage in while the mash is still warm, seasoning with salt and pepper. Grated nutmeg, if unorthodox, makes an improving addition.
Break it up with a spatula, mix and press down again. Cook for another 10 minutes. Preheat a hot grill.
Brush the surface with
© 1998 Alastair Little and Richard Whittington estate. All rights reserved.