Bhel

There are bhel-wallas on many corners in Bombay, deftly mixing little newspaper cones of bhel on demand: a light almost-salad of puffed rice, sev, chopped onions, tomatoes, chilli and chutney. Every bhel-walla has his own version: an extra chutney here, slivers of green mango there. We add ruby-red pomegranate seeds for colour and flavour.

Mamra is puffed rice, and fine sev is a very thin type of chickpea noodle. Make sure you buy a good-quality (slightly more expensiv