The 1920s saw a new vogue for fresh, zingy flavors and lighter dishes than those of the Edwardian era. The first calorie-controlled diet was introduced in 1918, and women’s fashions of the time emphasized a slender, boyish figure. At lunches, in particular, which were very much feminized meals, light dishes and salads were popular. Houses such as Downton all had extensive kitchen gardens, which meant that the elements of leaf salads, known to lose their crunch rapidly, could be picked at their best and served within a few hours. This recipe, which comes from A Book of Scents and Dishes, published in 1927, makes use of one of the staples of the twentieth-century pantry: tinned sardines. The original also calls for garnishing the salad with lemon slices and nasturtiums.