When you sit down at one of the few tables at the Osteria da Cencio in the town of Cento, near Ferrara, the host will bring you the cestino del fornaio, a basket with the breads and focaccia of the day. The osteria has been in operation since 1850, carries over a hundred wines, and specializes in foods of the region. Although the Gorgonzola is a touch of Lombardy, the sweet caramelized onions are much enjoyed in the Veneto. The addition of mildly bitter