Sarde in Saor

Saor is Venetian dialect for sapore, or “flavor.” Another term for this style of dish is in carpione, in a mild vinegar marinade, or con cipollata, “with onion.” For this Venetian classic, sautéed fish is marinated under a layer of sweet-and-sour onions. It is served in the traditional manner, at room temperature, in the city at Enoteca Vino Vino and at Roberto Meneghetti’s combination osteria and wine bar, Osteria al Bacco. Matteo Ruffini, at the Osteria Antico Dolo, also in Venice, depart