It may seem odd, but the dish that most of us call eggplant Parmesan has very little to do with the town of Parma. In the classic southern Italian version, most popular in Italo-American restaurants, eggplant is fried, layered with tomato sauce and slices of mozzarella and caciocavallo cheese, and sometimes slices of hard-boiled egg, and then topped with bread crumbs and grated pecorino or Parmesan cheese. It can be rather heavy. I was served a deliciou