Wood or cloud ear mushrooms, also known as Chinese black fungus, derive their name from the way they grow in rows of ‘ears’ on damp wood. When you buy them, the hard, crinkled pieces are as light as paper; soaked in hot water, they expand into sleek, rippling waves. The mushrooms retain their slippery crispness even after cooking and are appreciated for this delectable mouthfeel rather than any inherent flavour. In this brisk, refreshing salad, the wood ears are complemented by the arrestin