One of my favourite Chinese soups is a speciality of Chongqing: a rich, nourishing oxtail broth, cooked for many hours, then served with a beautiful scattering of scarlet gouqi berries and a handful of fresh coriander. The same method can be used to cook beef and it works perfectly with brisket, one of those nostalgic cuts of meat that I adored as a child. In the original recipe, a whole chicken is used to enrich and elevate the flavour of the beef, but stewing the meat in a rich chicken st