This refreshing, savoury soup is an everyday Cantonese classic: a light broth dense with leafy greens and enlivened by scrumptious morsels of pork and salted egg. Many Chinese chefs in the West know how to make it, but it’s rarely listed on English language menus. Chicken can be substituted for the pork, while vegetarians will enjoy the soup with a vegetarian stock and no meat at all.

Don’t be alarmed by the instruction to ‘cut the yolks into small pieces’: the process of salting th