Petits Croques-Monsieurs

“Buy on bread, sell on cheese,” goes the old wine merchant’s saw—bread because it is a reasonably neutral “palate-cleanser,” useful as a sensory interlude between wine samples; cheese because it makes most types of wine taste better. (And vice versa: Pierre Androuët wrote in his book The Complete Encyclopedia of French Cheese, “Man has yet to find a better companion to cheese than wine”) One of my favorite preparations of cheese is a variation on that ubiquitous Parisian snack foo