Falafel with sumac onion

In Palestine, falafel are more often than not picked up on street corners (rather than made at home), freshly fried and piled into pita bread or paper cones. It’s rare to find this street vendor set-up outside the Middle East, though, so for anything resembling the real deal, these need to be made freshly at home. The success of pre-cooked, fridge-cold supermarket falafel is, for Sami – and anyone who grew up eating them in the Middle East – one of life’s great mysteries.

A three-pa