Meat dumplings in yoghurt sauce

These ravioli-like dumplings, cooked in a rich yoghurt sauce, go by a couple of other names: taqiyet elyahoodi, which means ‘Jew’s hat’, or dinein qtat, which means ‘cat’s ears’. Whichever their shape resembles more – hats or cats – few dishes take Sami so quickly back home. They’re his real madeleine moment. They’re a labour of love, but, as is often the case with the food which reminds us of home, the result is pure comfort and nurture.

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