Trout with Ramp Pesto and Morels

Once the calendar turns to January, I start dreaming of finding morels. In fact, I have a recurring dream of finding morels growing in the corners of rooms. Wild leeks, also known as ramps, are one of the first signs that spring is here, as are the black morels under tulip poplars, followed by the yellow morels under ash trees. They grow in secret places (including in my dreams). After a long winter, the spring needs to be celebrated with fabulous dishes of local foraged and fished food. If