Tender leeks and home-smoked salmon gratinated with lemon and chive glaçage

Leeks, along with turnips and celery, are often underrated. But not only are they very healthy – an excellent diuretic – they are delicious cooked in many ways. As a child we had them on the dinner table at least once a week in winter, either gratinated with conté and béchamel sauce or simply with vinaigrette. They are considered poor man’s food, so for this recipe I like to marry them with rich man’s smoked salmon.