In his charming book La Cuisinière provençale, first published in 1895 and still on sale in bookshops throughout France, J.-B. Reboul, another celebrated cook, gives two seasoning mixes – poudre aromatique and poudre friande – the latter being a mix of pounded sun and oven-dried button mushrooms, morels, mousserons and black truffles. These fascinating recipes give some idea of the lengths to which-the professional cooks of Proven
