The first Provençal cookbook that I ever owned was a tattered blue-covered early edition of a remarkable old tome entitled La Cuisinière provençale, given to me by my dear friend Fifine, self-taught cuisinière and restaurateur of St Tropez, who started me out on the long road to gastronomic delights with this simple gift, written over a hundred years ago by the Provençal chef J.-B. Reboul. It was in this old book that I first discovered all the