Daube of Monkfish with Lardons and Button Mushrooms

I first served this dish some 18 or so years ago and it is featured, or at least its predecessor is featured, in my first book. It has evolved since then and I now use monkfish cheeks (I doubt if they were available in the UK back in the late seventies or early eighties and if they were, I was blissfully unaware); then it was braised with bacon in red wine, so there is not really much difference.